Day 152: Cerro Sombrero, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina

Well folks,
What can we say. We have now ridden from the very top of North America to the very bottom of South America. What a blast! An incredible and amazing adventure. And it's not over yet!
The weather forecast for today was for increasing westerly winds and rain so we didn't hang around too long this morning, knowing that our first 120kms would be gravel. During the afternoon two other groups came in. This one from Brazil heading for Ushuaia, one on a 1200 Suzuki Bandit!




And this group of Australians on a guided tour from Ushuaia to Santiago on BMW 800s and 650s. With a pickup and trailer to carry their gear. And a spare bike to allow for a breakdown.




The wind was picking up as we rode out at about 7.45am and once again it meant that photo opportunities were limited. We rode towards Onaisin and hit the gravel after about 20kms. Despite all the dire warnings we have had, it wasn't too bad. Certainly not after Ruta 40! We basically got on with it and the wind, while a nuisance, was ok. So were the trucks who treated us very well, one even stopping and pulling over to let us by. And another conveniently parked as a wind break so we could have a stretch.




The landscape was pretty barren.




After about two hours we arrived at the Chilean border post. It was pretty quick - I had mislaid one of my forms and the official told me not to worry and simply filled it out again on the spot. It was then a huge ride - 12kms? - to the Argentinian border where we went through the rigmarole once again of getting ourselves and then our bikes into the county. A little sour note here as Mrk had one of his gloves stolen off his bike. He had left his sunglasses inside the glove and on the handlebars and someone lifted it. We couldn't work it out at first. Who would want to steal one glove? And looked all around for where the wind might have blown it. Then he remembered about the sunglasses. So if you happen to see an Argentinian truck driver with only one hand and wearing flash sunnies, please give Mark a call.
We had a quick bite to eat here before rolling on south. The wind was picking up now and it was hard work. I loved this sign though.




And this one.




Gradually the landscape became less barren and the trees went from being wind blown shrubs to being respectable trees. We went up and through a mountain pass with the temperature sneaking down to around 5 degrees and a little flurry of snow. Then at last we were in Ushuaia. You need to enlarge this photo.




Diana is waving her arms in the air and I am echoing with my legs. Wait till you see the video! Down into the city (60,000 population?) and then up a steep street to the hostel which Mark had organised for us. Then one last challenge. Our parking space. This:




The street was very steep (think Baldwin Street in Dunedin) and we had to ride up, turn hard right to line up with the notch in the step and go for it.




Phew. All this from Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia and then to fall over in the last two metres?




The girls look quite comfortable now though.




In here.




We all had a beer to celebrate. Kiwi behaved quite disgracefully.












And so we are here. We will have a day or two here, do the tourist thing and then turn back along the same road as far as Punta Delgada. We will then turn right to the east and head for Buenos Aires. It all feels a bit funny, not exactly an anticlimax but a sense of unreality in a way. It has been a huge trip.
I'll get out and about tomorrow - this looks like an interesting town.

Today's ride: 452k s
Cumulative: 38,638kms
Tipovers: 5

Location:Ushuaia, Argentina

Day 151: Puerto Natales to Cerro Sombrero, Chile

Hola!
What a blast today! Literally! The famous winds of the ferocious fifties gave us a good smack today. We were up reasonably early for the hotel breakfast and I spent 15 minutes or so looking for the bag that my bike cover lives in. Unsuccessfully. It must have blown out during the night and then blown off down the street. Or up. Or something. The wind on the road was so fierce that I couldn't stop to take photos so I am a bit image light today.
We rode south on Ruta 9 to Morro Chico and then on down to the turn off to Ruta 255. The wind came in from the west so we were leaning hard into it with the neck muscles tensed and very now and again a little gust-induced foray to the other side of the road.




At one point we were waved over to the side of the road by the police to allow a house drive by - being trucked up the road. It was so windy that I got off Ebony and put her on the sidestand.




We stopped for coffee at a quirky little roadside cafe. It was great with great coffee as well.




Someone has an odd sense of humour.








We then turned east on 255 and for a glorious half hour or so rode with the gale right up our exhaust pipes. So to speak. We were enclosed in a cocoon of still air while riding at 110kph. I watched my engine temperature to make sure Ebony didn't overheat but she was fine. Allo Guthrie launched into the Motorcycle Song in my helmet speakers just as the quiet descended. It was kewl. But only too brief.
We turned right just before Punta Delgada and carried on to the ferry loading point. The sign on the intersection said "Tierra del Fuego." That was quite a moment.








It was pretty bleak. But there is the Strait of Magellan! Ferdinand Magellan, Thomas Cavendish, Francis Drake and now Ken Wilson with Ebony and Kiwi. What illustrious waters.




Here's a map:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:South_America_southern_tip_pol.png
While we waited, Ritchie arrived on a 1975 Honda CB500. He was something of a character.




So was his bike. It was pretty kewl really.




So was his front tyre.




Also these hard case guys. The one on the left wearing a New Zealand World Cup 2011 sweatshirt.




And the ferry.




Also this amazing sheep, obviously enthralled by the dog. I tried to get a better picture but the ferry was ready to load. Have a look at Diana's blog.




And on we went.




We were told to stay with our bikes to make sure they didn't fall over with the movement of the ferry. We didn't need to be told twice. It rather limited the view though. (Thanks Diana for the photo)








The ferry was hardly overloaded




And soon we were off




and ready to be welcomed to the province of Tierra del Fuego.




About 60kms or so then down to Cerro Sombrero with the wind punishing us again. We found a hostel and have pulled in for the night. It is quite nice too. We had lunch and refuelled and then for some reason that I can't explain, felt tired. And had a siesta. It must be contagious.
Tomorrow we hope to make Ushuaia. This will involve 120kms of gravel road so with this wind (predicted to increase!) we will be taking care. And may even stay here if it looks too bad. It will also include a border crossing. From Ushuaia we ride to Lapataia for the famous photo - the counter to this one. What a shame that Shirley will not be here to share it with me.




Today's ride: 355kms
Cumulative: 38,186kms
Tipovers: 5

Location:Cerro Sombrero, Chile

Day 150: a rest day in Puerto Natales, Chile

Hi everyone
We have had a quiet and gentle day today leaping out of bed at the crack of 7.30am and having a really nice breakfast here at the hotel. I can't get over how late everything gets going here. Everyone seems to work and play late and begin late in the morning. Lots of shops are still opening at 10.30 or 11am. I saw a pub today that opens at 2200 hours. And many still seem to have a midafternoon siesta.

Mark and I walked to town trying to find a barbers or hairdresser that was open but without success. In the end I went to a supermarket and bought a disposable razor and came back to the hotel for a DIY shave and clip with the scissors. It looks a bit ragged but it will do.


Hmmmmm .... perhaps on second thoughts I need it done professionally. :-)

Aaaahhhh .... That's better.



Later I went for a long walk along the waterfront. It was cold! There is a southerly wind straight from the South Pole via some snowy mountains whipping up the harbour and it is icy.






And just to remind you how far south we are.



Which made these statues of swimmers even more improbable.



And these plastic children's playgrounds close to the water's edge.






Some interesting houses on my walk.

In logs.



In plaster.



I also saw this unusual broome. The flowers are yellow with red sections in the blossoms. There are lots of little flower gardens in the fronts of houses.






A bit of colour in what is otherwise a pretty bleak place. There are huge public works going on everywhere - we wondered if it was part of the strategy to get Chileans out of Santiago and into this part of southern Chile. Tourism is obviously the big earner. There seem to be hundreds of hostels and hotels. Town seems pretty quiet though so I'm not sure when their busy season is. If you have time, get a map and trace the channel from the town out to the Pacific Ocean. This is almost a landlocked harbour but is still accessible to big ships.

I stopped off at a cafe for lunch and had empanadas. Quite the nicest I have had: two with shrimps and cheese, two with meat and two with corn and stuff. And a local dark ale. (As you can see I ate one before I thought of taking a photo.)



I haven't quite sorted out the connection but obviously wool and weaving are big here.









Dick had a board meeting during the afternoon so at 8.30 we went out to the local fish restaurant. I thought it was pretty good. A bit like an old prefab classroom really.



It had a cool imitation gas fired wood stove



And a nice display at the counter.



Here is my fish and curried vegetables.



And our lovely waitress.



We are now 755kms from Ushuaia - two days ride. Our journey is coming to an end. We have about 150kms of gravel to ride and a border crossing into Argentina. We have already started talking with shipping agents in Buenos Aires about getting the girls home and thinking about flights back to NZ. I'm looking forward to it - I am missing my family lots.

There is still lots to do. It will take us five or six days to ride the 3100kms from Ushuaia up to Buenos Aires, then some time to get the girls sorted before we can organise a flight home.

Today's run: 0kms
Cumulative: 37,831kms
Tipovers: 5

Location:Puerto Natales, Chile