Day 151: Puerto Natales to Cerro Sombrero, Chile

Hola!
What a blast today! Literally! The famous winds of the ferocious fifties gave us a good smack today. We were up reasonably early for the hotel breakfast and I spent 15 minutes or so looking for the bag that my bike cover lives in. Unsuccessfully. It must have blown out during the night and then blown off down the street. Or up. Or something. The wind on the road was so fierce that I couldn't stop to take photos so I am a bit image light today.
We rode south on Ruta 9 to Morro Chico and then on down to the turn off to Ruta 255. The wind came in from the west so we were leaning hard into it with the neck muscles tensed and very now and again a little gust-induced foray to the other side of the road.




At one point we were waved over to the side of the road by the police to allow a house drive by - being trucked up the road. It was so windy that I got off Ebony and put her on the sidestand.




We stopped for coffee at a quirky little roadside cafe. It was great with great coffee as well.




Someone has an odd sense of humour.








We then turned east on 255 and for a glorious half hour or so rode with the gale right up our exhaust pipes. So to speak. We were enclosed in a cocoon of still air while riding at 110kph. I watched my engine temperature to make sure Ebony didn't overheat but she was fine. Allo Guthrie launched into the Motorcycle Song in my helmet speakers just as the quiet descended. It was kewl. But only too brief.
We turned right just before Punta Delgada and carried on to the ferry loading point. The sign on the intersection said "Tierra del Fuego." That was quite a moment.








It was pretty bleak. But there is the Strait of Magellan! Ferdinand Magellan, Thomas Cavendish, Francis Drake and now Ken Wilson with Ebony and Kiwi. What illustrious waters.




Here's a map:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:South_America_southern_tip_pol.png
While we waited, Ritchie arrived on a 1975 Honda CB500. He was something of a character.




So was his bike. It was pretty kewl really.




So was his front tyre.




Also these hard case guys. The one on the left wearing a New Zealand World Cup 2011 sweatshirt.




And the ferry.




Also this amazing sheep, obviously enthralled by the dog. I tried to get a better picture but the ferry was ready to load. Have a look at Diana's blog.




And on we went.




We were told to stay with our bikes to make sure they didn't fall over with the movement of the ferry. We didn't need to be told twice. It rather limited the view though. (Thanks Diana for the photo)








The ferry was hardly overloaded




And soon we were off




and ready to be welcomed to the province of Tierra del Fuego.




About 60kms or so then down to Cerro Sombrero with the wind punishing us again. We found a hostel and have pulled in for the night. It is quite nice too. We had lunch and refuelled and then for some reason that I can't explain, felt tired. And had a siesta. It must be contagious.
Tomorrow we hope to make Ushuaia. This will involve 120kms of gravel road so with this wind (predicted to increase!) we will be taking care. And may even stay here if it looks too bad. It will also include a border crossing. From Ushuaia we ride to Lapataia for the famous photo - the counter to this one. What a shame that Shirley will not be here to share it with me.




Today's ride: 355kms
Cumulative: 38,186kms
Tipovers: 5

Location:Cerro Sombrero, Chile

Day 150: a rest day in Puerto Natales, Chile

Hi everyone
We have had a quiet and gentle day today leaping out of bed at the crack of 7.30am and having a really nice breakfast here at the hotel. I can't get over how late everything gets going here. Everyone seems to work and play late and begin late in the morning. Lots of shops are still opening at 10.30 or 11am. I saw a pub today that opens at 2200 hours. And many still seem to have a midafternoon siesta.

Mark and I walked to town trying to find a barbers or hairdresser that was open but without success. In the end I went to a supermarket and bought a disposable razor and came back to the hotel for a DIY shave and clip with the scissors. It looks a bit ragged but it will do.


Hmmmmm .... perhaps on second thoughts I need it done professionally. :-)

Aaaahhhh .... That's better.



Later I went for a long walk along the waterfront. It was cold! There is a southerly wind straight from the South Pole via some snowy mountains whipping up the harbour and it is icy.






And just to remind you how far south we are.



Which made these statues of swimmers even more improbable.



And these plastic children's playgrounds close to the water's edge.






Some interesting houses on my walk.

In logs.



In plaster.



I also saw this unusual broome. The flowers are yellow with red sections in the blossoms. There are lots of little flower gardens in the fronts of houses.






A bit of colour in what is otherwise a pretty bleak place. There are huge public works going on everywhere - we wondered if it was part of the strategy to get Chileans out of Santiago and into this part of southern Chile. Tourism is obviously the big earner. There seem to be hundreds of hostels and hotels. Town seems pretty quiet though so I'm not sure when their busy season is. If you have time, get a map and trace the channel from the town out to the Pacific Ocean. This is almost a landlocked harbour but is still accessible to big ships.

I stopped off at a cafe for lunch and had empanadas. Quite the nicest I have had: two with shrimps and cheese, two with meat and two with corn and stuff. And a local dark ale. (As you can see I ate one before I thought of taking a photo.)



I haven't quite sorted out the connection but obviously wool and weaving are big here.









Dick had a board meeting during the afternoon so at 8.30 we went out to the local fish restaurant. I thought it was pretty good. A bit like an old prefab classroom really.



It had a cool imitation gas fired wood stove



And a nice display at the counter.



Here is my fish and curried vegetables.



And our lovely waitress.



We are now 755kms from Ushuaia - two days ride. Our journey is coming to an end. We have about 150kms of gravel to ride and a border crossing into Argentina. We have already started talking with shipping agents in Buenos Aires about getting the girls home and thinking about flights back to NZ. I'm looking forward to it - I am missing my family lots.

There is still lots to do. It will take us five or six days to ride the 3100kms from Ushuaia up to Buenos Aires, then some time to get the girls sorted before we can organise a flight home.

Today's run: 0kms
Cumulative: 37,831kms
Tipovers: 5

Location:Puerto Natales, Chile

Day 149: Hotel Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales, Chile

Hi everyone
It was a bit disappointing this morning to wake up to find ourselves still socked in with cloud and mist. If you want to see what this special mountain range looks like, go and have a look at the McColl blog here:
http://2012ridearoundtheandes.blogspot.com/2012/11/el-calafate-torres-del-paine.html
We had a pretty gentle roll out of Torres del Paine. First Kiwi went and checked out his cousin.








Seemed pretty quiet. Kiwi wondered if he was stuffed?
The pack horses were waiting patiently for their trek up to the mountain camps.








Meanwhile Kiwi checked out these ladies from Belgium and France. One a teacher and one a doctor.




Ellen quite liked the idea of being a biker.




We got a tantalising glimpse of the famous peaks as we headed off down the gravel road




making sure we were going the right way.




We had thought we might camp along the way but there was really nowhere very nice.




And so we kept going to Puerto Natales. Love the corrugations!






We filled up with petrol and I attempted to top up my rear tyre but somehow ended up bleeding the air out. I had to top up on the side of the road. I could have been more pleased.




We then found a hotel. It is ok and quite a lot less expensive than the very ordinary hotel we were in last night. Here's the view from the deck...




where we sat and had a beer.




while the girls waited patiently down below.




We then went out for dinner. I remembered to take my camera. This is the raw fish. Ok but not enough coconut cream for me.




This was my lamb.




And we were all happy chappies. Mostly.




Today's run: 138kms
Cumulative: 37,831kms
Tipovers: 5

Location:Puerto Natales, Chile